Large and Small Proteins: Which Does Your Hair Need?

More and more often, you hear about large and small proteins within the CG Method. But what's the difference? And more importantly: which protein does your hair need?

 

That depends entirely on your hair porosity.

 

👉 Don't know your porosity yet? First read: What is hair porosity?
👉 Or discover your hair profile directly via the hair test.

 

In this blog, we explain:

 

• What protein does for your hair
• The difference between large and small molecules
• Which porosity needs which protein
• How to recognize them on an ingredient list

 

What are proteins and what do they do for your hair?

Your hair largely consists of protein. It's an important building block for our body and hair, providing:

 

✔️ Strength
✔️ Hydration
✔️ Shine
✔️ Support for hair structure

 

Due to damage (heat, dyeing, bleaching, chemical treatments), your hair can lose protein. This can make it:

 

• Brittle
• Limp to the touch
• Lack definition
• Appear dry

 

Why porosity is so important here

The effectiveness of protein is closely related to your hair porosity.

 

👉 Porosity is one of the three important hair characteristics. Read here how to determine your hair characteristics.

 

Briefly explained:

 

• Low porosity → Hair cuticles are closed
• High porosity → Hair cuticles are open

 

And that determines which protein your hair can absorb.

 

Large and Small Proteins – What's the Difference?

Small proteins (small molecules)

Small proteins can more easily penetrate the hair cuticles.

 

These are suitable for:

 

• Low porosity
• Medium porosity
• Hair that is not/barely damaged

 

How to recognize small proteins on the ingredient list:

• Amino Acids
• Peptides
• Hydrolyzed Silk
• Hydrolyzed Keratin
• Hydrolyzed Collagen
• Gelatin

Large proteins (large molecules)

Large proteins mainly attach to the outside of the hair and cannot penetrate the closed cuticles of low porosity hair.

They are especially suitable for:

 

• High porosity
• Damaged hair
• Bleached hair
  

 

How to recognize large proteins:

• Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein
• Hydrolyzed Wheat Starch
• Hydrolyzed Soy Protein
• Hydrolyzed Quinoa
• Hydrolyzed Lupine

How do you know if your hair needs protein?

Your hair may need protein if you notice it is:

 

• Brittle
• Limp to the touch
• Easily damaged
• Recently dyed or bleached
• Regularly styled with heat

 

Note: Too much protein can also lead to stiff and dry hair.

Tips for using protein

• High porosity hair can temporarily use large proteins
• Low porosity works better with small proteins
• Protein works best in a hair mask and/or leave-in
• A heat cap when using a mask can help with low porosity
• Protein in gel provides extra hold

 

Has your hair recently undergone chemical treatment or do you use a lot of heat? Then a period with larger proteins can help with recovery.

How long does hair remain highly porous?

After damage (such as bleaching), hair often remains highly porous for 6–8 weeks. With proper care, it can then recover towards medium porosity.

 

Do you notice that large proteins make your hair stiff and dry?
Then switch back to smaller molecules.

What happens with too little or too much protein?

Your hair needs a balance between hydration and protein. But what happens when that balance is disturbed?

 

Too little protein

Your hair can:

 

• Feel limp
• Have less definition
• Break easily
• Feel elastic and weak

 

This is often seen with:

 

• High porosity hair
• Damaged hair
• Hair that has been exposed to a lot of heat

 

In this case, adding protein can help temporarily strengthen your hair.

Too much protein

Too much protein can make your hair:

 

• Feel stiff
• Become dry
• Move less flexibly
• Have less shine

 

This is seen more often with:

 

• Low porosity
  
• When using multiple protein products simultaneously

 

The solution is simple: Temporarily use more hydrating products and less protein.

Which protein suits your hair?

Choosing the right protein depends on:

 

1. Your porosity
2. Your hair thickness
3. Your curl type

 

Still in doubt? With our hair test, you'll discover which protein and routine suit your hair.

 

👉 Discover your hair profile

 

Frequently Asked Questions about Protein

What is the difference between large and small proteins?

Small proteins penetrate the hair more easily. Large proteins mainly attach to the outside and are better suited for high porosity hair.

Does low porosity hair need protein?

Yes, but smaller protein molecules and in limited quantities.

Can you use too much protein?

Yes. Too much protein can make your hair stiff, dry, or brittle.

In which product does protein work best?

Especially in hair masks and leave-in conditioners, as these remain in the hair longer.